For Tartine Book No. 3, I explore ancient and heritage grains as a means to maximize flavor. I fermented, smoked, cooked, and sprouted grains in an attempt to accentuate their inherent flavors while retaining Tartine's signature style loaves. Rolled oats seemed the most straightforward place to begin exploring the idea of porridge-style breads. It was the first one we tried before moving on to seemingly more interesting ideas. But the rich, sweet flavor of the oats, coupled with the exceptionally moist, custardy crumb imparted by the cooked grain, have made this one of our signature breads.
For me, the quintessential loaf of bread has a deep, auburn crust that shatters when torn. But it's all about textures. The contrast of this crackly sheath against a tender, pearlescent crumb is what I’m after. Adding steam to the oven is an essential step to ensure a burnished crust, open scores, and full volume. The moist heat during the first 20 minutes of baking allows for the expansion of the loaves without forming a crust. Home bakers don’t have massive, wood-fired ovens at their disposal and regular ovens are designed to ventilate moisture, not augment it. I’ve found that the Dutch oven technique is a nice estimate, since it becomes a sealed, moist chamber and also has strong radiant heat. —Chad Robertson
A Texas native, Chad Robertson always knew he wanted to devote himself to a profession that involved the craftsmanship of his hands. Robertson enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, New York but quickly became entranced by the art of bread baking. Robertson's first apprenticeship was at Berkshire Mountain Bakery under the guidance of Richard Bourdon. There, Robertson worked 12 hour shifts where he would pull 3, 000 loaves a day. From there, he - and wife, Elisabeth Prueitt - journeyed to France and the French Alps to continue learning the intricacies of working with wood fired ovens and naturally leavened, long fermented breads. Upon their return, they became involved with Dave Miller in Chico, CA where they continued to hone their skills and understanding, this time with a larger focus on whole grains. Soon after, Robertson and Prueitt moved to Pt. Reyes, CA where they built a modest bakeshop called Bay Village Bakery. It was here that Robertson baked for 18 hours straight with the intent to perfect his technique by focusing on three ingredients and a world of possibility. After five years in the country, the hum of city life beckoned. In 2002, the couple opened Tartine Bakery, which almost instantaneously became a San Francisco institution. In 2005, the couple opened Bar Tartine, a restaurant that continuously redefines itself and draws inspiration from all corners of the globe. In 2006, Robertson and Prueitt published the Tartine Cookbook (Chronicle Books), in 2010 Robertson published Tartine Bread (Chronicle Books), and in fall of 2013 Robertson published his third book, Tartine Book No. 3 (Chronicle Books). He is the recipient, with his wife, of the 2008 James Beard Foundation Award for Outstanding Pastry Chef and has been featured in a variety of premier media outlets, including Bon Appetit, Elle, Vogue, Food Arts, Food & Wine, Saveur, and The New York Times. Chad Robertson is considered one of the leaders in naturally leavened bread baking.I’ve baked many Tartine-style loaves through the years, but only a few from their third book, Tartine No. 3: Ode to Bourdon whole wheat and their oat porridge loaf. Both delicious and worth the little bit of extra work required, but why haven’t I made more of these unique recipes? The answer is just that I haven’t had the time to derail my focus on the constant improvement of my country loaf. Each time I get the opportunity to bake I want to do a “simple” country loaf to try and improve the flavor and texture, to get a more gelatinized interior, and increase the caramelization of the outer crust. But I wanted to take a break for a bit, to explore making this Tartine millet porridge sourdough bread.
Satisfying Cravings For European Pastries While In Quarantine
When I first bought Tartine No. 3, I just knew there was going to be a recipe using millet. Sure enough, a millet porridge recipe almost opened up to itself as I was perusing the tome. Before heading to my local market to pick up the small amount we needed, I decided to double it and attempt this porridge recipe a few times. My previous oat porridge bakes produced some of my favorite sourdoughs to date, and I just knew, if executed properly, a millet porridge bread would rank equally high on my favorite recipe list.
Millet is high in fiber and relatively rich in iron and phosphorus; the bran layers of millet are a good source of B-complex vitamins.
I’ve never really eaten millet before, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’ve read adjectives like “nutty” and “crunchy” so how could I go wrong. Holding the grain in my hand, it does look like what most people call it: birdseed. I believe millet has been used as bird food for a long, long time. Isn’t it funny these once cheap and undesirable grains are now becoming desired for their health benefits and flavor?
Brine And Broth
I knew going into this bake hydration was going to be an issue. However, my lessons learned from the oat porridge loaf had me prepared this time. I dialed back the initial hydration of the loaf in preparation for a super-hydrated dough by the end of bulk. A few minutes of planning before executing saved me from one of those cursing-while-shaping scenarios I’ve been through in the past.
The Tartine recipe specifiesfirst gently toasting your raw millet and then soaking the toasted grain overnight. Toast 150g raw millet on a baking sheet at 350ºF for about 20 mins. The millet should darken slightly but not burn. Then, remove from oven and place in a bowl with 2 cups cold water poured over.
Take your soaking millet and pour all the contents into a saucepan and bring to a boil. After boiling reduce heat to a gentle simmer and cover. Cook for around 20 minutes or so, until all the water added from the night before, has cooked away. Be sure to stir often near the end of this 20 minutes to ensure your millet doesn’t burn on the bottom.
First Successful Porridge Loaf. Double Fermented Kamut Flax Porridge ( Tartine No3)
Once cooked, fluff up the porridge with a fork in your pan and then pour out onto a baking sheet lined with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Keep covered with aluminum foil with a little vent here and there to let hot air escape. You don't want it to try out too far, but you want it to cool down as much as possible before adding into your dough.
After you finish cooking and setting out the porridge, let’s work on getting our levain started. Continuing with my stiff starter and stiff levain, prepare a levain early in the morning when you wake. If you don’t have, or care for, a stiff stater a liquid one will work just fine here (you might want to reduce your dough hydration a few percentage points to offset the difference between my 65% hydration starter and your potentially 100% hydration starter).
Keep your stiff levain in a warm area and wait about 5 or so hours until it’s matured enough to leaven your dough. If using a stiff levain you want to use after significant expansion has taken place, but there is still a domed top (i.e., your “stiff ball” has not yet collapsed in the top-middle). If using a liquid levain you want bubbles on top and throughout and still a sweet smell to it, but almost tangy.
Tartine Basic Country With Pennsylvania Blue Cornmeal
After our one hour autolyse has elapsed break up the stiff levain on top of the dough and pour on the 20g salt. Pour the remaining warm water on top to help dissolve things and to prepare for mixing.
This initial development of the dough gets things off to a quick start. We strengthen up the gluten in our dough before our porridge is added — once the porridge, with its high water content, is added to the dough it will start to release hydration back into the dough, slackening it. I’ve found this initial slap/fold session, plus numerous turns in the bulk container, help keep the dough strong through bulk.
Transfer your dough to a clear container to be used during bulk fermentation and let rest for the first 30 minutes. After the first 30 minutes have passed, perform your first set of stretch and folds.
Baking Artisan Bread
As with my previous oat porridge experiences, I felt, even with the set of slap & folds, in the beginning, this dough could take as many stretch and fold sets as I could throw at it. The added hydration in the cooked millet porridge slackened the dough significantly by the end of bulk, as expected. It wasn’t unmanageable, be ready for a slightly more sticky and messy shaping endeavor. This is one reason I typically will only do boules with this type of bread:
Once cooked, fluff up the porridge with a fork in your pan and then pour out onto a baking sheet lined with a silicone mat or parchment paper. Keep covered with aluminum foil with a little vent here and there to let hot air escape. You don't want it to try out too far, but you want it to cool down as much as possible before adding into your dough.
After you finish cooking and setting out the porridge, let’s work on getting our levain started. Continuing with my stiff starter and stiff levain, prepare a levain early in the morning when you wake. If you don’t have, or care for, a stiff stater a liquid one will work just fine here (you might want to reduce your dough hydration a few percentage points to offset the difference between my 65% hydration starter and your potentially 100% hydration starter).
Keep your stiff levain in a warm area and wait about 5 or so hours until it’s matured enough to leaven your dough. If using a stiff levain you want to use after significant expansion has taken place, but there is still a domed top (i.e., your “stiff ball” has not yet collapsed in the top-middle). If using a liquid levain you want bubbles on top and throughout and still a sweet smell to it, but almost tangy.
Tartine Basic Country With Pennsylvania Blue Cornmeal
After our one hour autolyse has elapsed break up the stiff levain on top of the dough and pour on the 20g salt. Pour the remaining warm water on top to help dissolve things and to prepare for mixing.
This initial development of the dough gets things off to a quick start. We strengthen up the gluten in our dough before our porridge is added — once the porridge, with its high water content, is added to the dough it will start to release hydration back into the dough, slackening it. I’ve found this initial slap/fold session, plus numerous turns in the bulk container, help keep the dough strong through bulk.
Transfer your dough to a clear container to be used during bulk fermentation and let rest for the first 30 minutes. After the first 30 minutes have passed, perform your first set of stretch and folds.
Baking Artisan Bread
As with my previous oat porridge experiences, I felt, even with the set of slap & folds, in the beginning, this dough could take as many stretch and fold sets as I could throw at it. The added hydration in the cooked millet porridge slackened the dough significantly by the end of bulk, as expected. It wasn’t unmanageable, be ready for a slightly more sticky and messy shaping endeavor. This is one reason I typically will only do boules with this type of bread:
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