Immersed in a peaceful contemplation of new titles in the cookery section of my favourite book store my gaze halted on an image of a simple crusty loaf on a dark wooden board. This is nothing new; it’s uncomplicated, even primitive, so maybe that’s why this ‘staff of life’ pictured beautifully has such an immediate pull. It cried out “take me home now”, but knew my copy was on its way…
Why on earth would I need another cookbook about bread when I already have at least seven on the subject plus the various chapters in numerous other volumes on my shelf? A fleeting thought that this was a tome too far, until I got stuck into this new book
The art of dough can be so elusive and changeable, scientific but infinitely organic as so many forces of nature, from microbes to temperature, can affect the final result. It’s a subject that rewards total immersion and a lifetime of perusal (study is far too austere a word). This book leads you in, shows you around and holds your hand and offers a wide variety of dough projects to get your hands stuck into.
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That I’ve ever seen in a bread cookery book. It reminded me of my biology books at school – but in a good way as it explains in detail the structure of a grain of wheat, milling techniques and extraction rates, other types of flours, and what effect this has on bread making. A wide variety of other things you might use in bread are covered with very practical advice. Did you know that a maximum of 10 per cent of cocoa to bread flour should be used, for instance, as it is acidic and contains starch (which tends to absorb moisture in a cake batter).
‘. Text and a multiple series of black and white images demonstrate exactly how each process of the dough should look and feel (and why). Testing the dough for correct proof with the ‘indentation test’ is super helpful and has three photographs to show under-proved, over-proved and correctly proved. Brilliant.
. As well as the basic loaves, there are lots of ideas to tempt you: beetroot and thyme baguettes, a loaf with a whole Brie baked inside, a spinach, pumpkin, cumin and feta damper.
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There’s not much to dislike about this book. Perhaps it’s because Dan is from a New Zealand background that the odd recipe doesn’t strike a chord with me (the
). The tone errs on the side of a professional baker which may be slightly off-putting if you are a very novice baker – however the information is exemplary. I found the order of recipes was a bit strange – most books start with the simplest and get more complicated but these are dotted around. The inclusion of a couple of recipes for left over bread (bread salad, French toast) is slightly random too – a whole chapter would have been more appropriate and useful.
An excellent addition to my bread baking book collection which brings another dimension of expertise and information as well as inspiration. It’s a good-looking book with a clean layout and gorgeous bread pics. While all my other books tell me how to do it right, this is the most comprehensive about what’s happening when it goes wrong. An encyclopedic resource for a beginner with enough to keep a more confident bread baker happy too.
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Published by Jacqui Small Books www.jacquismallpub.com (@JacquiSmallPub) and available from Kinokunya Book World in Dubai and the usual book sellers elsewhere. Thanks to Jacqui Small for sending me this copy to review – all thoughts and opinions my own.A couple of weeks ago, I received a gem in the mail – the highly anticipated and bestselling Wholegrain Sourdough at Home cookbook by my dear friend and sourdough master, Elaine Boddy. It did not take me long to immerse myself in her writing and the stunning photography that accompanied it. I knew that I had to share her gift with everyone that I knew. Since then, I have gifted the book to seasoned and beginning bakers alike. Their responses have been a mixture of joy, excitement, curiosity, and determination – similar to the sorts of emotions one experiences when they are about to embark on a journey – one that changes you, teaches you about yourself, and builds your confidence. What follows is a feeling of accomplishment that makes you realize that you are limitless and can achieve a thing you truly have a desire for.
Creating sourdough is a science and there are few resources out there that actually guide you through the process in a way that the average home baker can master. Elaine’s book is just that.
Is simple, direct, and free of the kind of jargon that makes baking complicated. Her method of teaching focuses on joy, simplicity, and patience. You will find that her baking sessions are therapeutic, foolproof, and satisfying for the soul. Besides teaching you the basics to create delicious sourdough from scratch, the author takes you further and explores mouthwatering and wholesome flavor combinations focused on ancient grains. Elaine will teach you how to make a successful starter using a variety of delicious and wholesome grain flours such as einkorn, emmer, spelt, khorasan, dark rye, and whole wheat. And then she walks you through the simple process of integrating the starter into the dough that will become your very own loaf of flavorful sourdough.
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My initial interest in Elaine’s techniques stem from the beginnings of bread baking in the Middle East. I have always been intrigued by the history of sourdough. It is one of the most ancient ways of creating food. Since the beginnings of recorded time, three simple ingredients came together to create sustenance for entire civilizations. Flour, water, and salt have always been the only ingredients necessary to make delicious and nourishing bread. “Eish”, the classical Arabic term for bread means life. Bread is truly life. It is
Bread is essential. In ancient Egypt, where some of the first uses of sourdough were recorded, flour and water were left out in the sun for several days to produce a rich and flavorful starter. The process has always been so effortless. And one of the many lessons we have learned this year is how uncertain life can be in the midst of a global pandemic. We have experienced periods of food scarcity and became self – reliant for many services we once relied on. Being able to make sourdough from scratch when bread or yeast is out of stock is a valuable gift. Even when the world goes back to a new normal and life becomes fast paced again, we can still value the the importance of taking a moment to slow down. To stick our hands in wet dough and knead our stressors away.
Are reflective of the author’s life experiences. When reading a book, especially, one that gets you involved in a skill, I like to know about the writer. I am intrigued about what inspires them and how they developed the very talent they teach. In this case, I was lucky to have known Elaine since I began my blogging journey, around 5 years ago. She is intensely passionate about what she does and shares her knowledge with both precision and simplicity. Elaine spent her childhood living as an English expat in the Arab world, the Emirates of the 1980s – a very different scene from the one in modern day. This upbringing would shape her tastes for ancient grains, spices, potent aromas, and of course, Middle Eastern breads. Apart from her using grains native to the Middle East, her book includes recipes such as spelt biscuits infused with zaa’tar – fusion in the best sense of the word and my kind of baking!
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Some of my favorite recipes from her book include the spelt and poppy seed loaf, khorasan and golden flaxseeds loaf, einkorn and chia seed loaf, all the focaccia varieties, and the list goes on and on. Every page of Elaine Boddy’s book makes your mouth water and your curiosity wander.
To bake but it also provides an abundance of delicious and inspiring recipes to experiment with. It is simple and detailed, well thought out and full of charm. The pages sparkle with Elaine’s touch and she truly went the extra mile to make every space in the book memorable. Unique, inspiring, and essential, I truly believe that every baker needs this book in their kitchen arsenal.
And with that I leave you with one of my favorite recipes in the book, Emmer and Za’atar Buttermilk Biscuits. This recipe is so me and so Elaine. Fluffy and deeply flavored sourdough biscuits infused with fragrant zaa’tar. The recipe reflects the beauty of bringing cultural cuisines together. And it is this very concept that kindled our friendship years ago. I hope you enjoy this recipe and if you give it a try, please share your creations with us!
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Step 1: In a large mixing bowl, using a strong spatula, or your hand,
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