A proper deli sandwich doesn't stop with the meat. All those Ashkenazi and central European influences should be there in the bread too. But ask any serious deli lover and they'll tell you that bread is where things begin to fall apart. Proper rye bread is terrifying stuff. It's heavy and dark. Rye doesn't contain anywhere near as much gluten as white wheat flour so it can't make the stretchy, elastic sponge that catches the gasses given off by the yeast and causes the loaf to rise into a great airy puff. Add to this the belief that a good rye should also be a sourdough and you're pretty much guaranteed a solid, heavy lump of punishment loaf.
It's perhaps unsurprising then, that few remaining delis serving salt beef have modernised their bread to something which, though lacking authenticity, doesn't require the constitution of a 17th century Ukrainian farmhand to digest. The 'rye' bread you'll be served these days resembles a just off-white slice of packet toasting bread, barely enlivened with a handful of caraway seeds.
In his book Save the Deli, David Sax recalls a dense moist rye with a crackling crust and, fortunately, something that answers that description while remaining only mildly scouring is surprisingly simple to produce.
Scientists Pit Sourdough Against White Bread—with Surprising Results
500g rye flour 500g strong white bread flour 20g fresh yeast (or half a sachet of instant) 20g salt 700g warm water 25g caraway seed, lightly cracked with a rolling pin
Combine the lot in a bowl and stir initially with a fork or scraper then dump into the bowl of a mixer and give it a good seven minutes at top speed with the dough hook. You could do this by hand but, if I'm perfectly honest, you could also buy the excellent pre-made rye loaf from somewhere like Poilane.
Shape into a large ball, coat with a little more flour and place in a bowl covered with a clean tea towel.
Dan Lepard's Apple And Caraway Rye Bread Recipe
Leave the dough to rise. In a warm place, it will achieve 1½ times its original size in an hour or two. Slow the rising process down - in a cold porch, or even in the fridge - and it will take all night, developing better, sourdough flavours as it does.
Half an hour before you're ready to cook, put a baking sheet in the oven and turn it up full. 5 minutes before baking, fill a small ovenproof dish with hot water from the kettle and stick it in the bottom of the hot oven.
Finally turn your dough out of the bowl straight onto the hot baking sheet and stuff it back into the hot, steamy oven as fast as you can. Try to leave the door open for the shortest possible time so the temperature doesn't drop.
Plantain Bread With Cream Cheese Buttercream
After 10 minutes, drop the oven temperature to 180C and open the door. This lets you check on your loaf and allows the oven temp to drop a little faster. After about 20 seconds, close the door and leave for another 20 or so minutes.
At the end of this time the loaf will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. It should cool thoroughly before slicing.Rye bread is easy to make, stays fresh for days and is packed with flavour. The only dilemma is how thick to slice it…
I t is not just the sweet nuttiness of a rye loaf that appeals but its pinch of acidity. That brightness that exists even, sometimes more so, after toasting. There is often a chewy quality, each mouthful so much more satisfying than a piece of airy ciabatta or even a slice of sourdough. While rye toast has all the comforting qualities of wholemeal, it has a brightness, a little snap, that tastes alive, not dead.
Best White Rye Flour Bread Recipes
Rye flour produces a loaf that is generally a wee bit heavier than white flour, and bread made purely from rye can occasionally be only a step away from a house brick. I lighten mine with a quantity, often half, of wholemeal or white. You get the best of both worlds. The flat, round 100% rye loaves are good when sliced only a little thicker than a pound coin, toasted and used to carry goat's curd and slivers of gravlax.
The nature of rye bread, tight textured and chewy, means you need less to satisfy a bread craving. Toasted, it works enticingly with sharp jams, gooseberry, plum and redcurrant jelly. Cream or curd cheeses, again with a speck of acidity, and sweet, nutty cheeses such as gruyère partner it as perfectly as ripe brie on a crisp crusted, flour-dusted baguette. A great rye-bread sandwich is one that holds layers of milky caerphilly cheese and peppery, glossy-leaved watercress.
Toasted rye bread is probably the perfect base for small fish and shellfish. Prawns in dill-freckled mayonnaise; pickled rolled herring with paper-thin onion and sliced gherkin; escabèche of mackerel. My own favourite is smoked cod's roe, spread straight from its skin before some spoilsport whips it into taramasalata. The salty pink roe and the tobacco-coloured bread form a pretty fine partnership.
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I used to think rye flour was difficult to work and had a few failures along the way. But the more you work with it and get to understand its ways, the more you realise that this is flour that doesn't produce a billowing fluffy loaf or a featherlight sponge. It is more complex than that. No, the rise won't be so magnificent, the crumb of your loaf will be tighter and the texture more dense. But you will end up with a bread of depth and intrigue whose flavour will be both complex and bright. It will keep well, too – far longer than a white loaf.
I started my rye baking with a mixture of flours, but with each batch I make, I notice the ratio of rye flour to white is going up. If I keep headed in this direction, there will be a pure rye bread on my breakfast table by the new year.
The addition of a little grated cheese to this loaf is unusual. I included it initially on a whim, but then enjoyed the way it seemed to increase both the depth of flavour and moistness of the loaf. Leave it out if you wish. It's no big deal. I used a deep loaf tin, lightly floured. These loaves keep very well for several days – and make cracking toast. If spelt flour remains elusive, then use standard wholemeal. Makes 2 large loaves.
Dan Lepard's Cider Rye Loaf Recipe
Lightly warm the water with the honey, stirring to dissolve, then pour into the flour and yeast. Mix the ingredients to form a sticky dough, then tip on to a floured board or work surface.
Lightly oil the bowl then return the dough to it, cover with a tea cloth or clingfilm, then set aside in a warm place for about an hour, until the dough is half as big again.
Remove the dough from the bowl, place on a lightly floured board and knead again, briefly, for just a minute or two, incorporating the walnuts and parmesan as you go. Divide the dough in half, then place in the prepared loaf tins, cover and set aside for a further 30 minutes until risen. Set the oven at 220C/gas mark 8. Bake for 30 minutes, until crisp on top. Remove from the oven, leave for 10 minutes in its tin, then lift out and leave to cool before slicing.
A Recipe For Danish Rye Bread
Warm the apple juice and honey in a saucepan. It should be just hot enough to hold your finger in. Put the flours in a large mixing bowl and sprinkle in the yeast and salt. Pour in the warm apple juice and honey and mix thoroughly to a sticky dough.
Knead the dough by hand for a mere 3 or 4 minutes, pushing, pulling and stretching the dough in whatever way suits you. You can use the food mixer fitted with a dough hook if you prefer. Oil or flour the bowl lightly, then return the dough to it and cover with a tea cloth or clingfilm. Set aside in a warm place, free of draughts, for an hour or until the dough has risen to almost twice its original volume.
Set the oven at 220C/gas mark 8. Tear off 12-15 pieces and form into balls. Place these on a baking sheet or pizza stone, then scatter the surface with poppy and pumpkin seeds and cover with a dry tea cloth. Leave in a warm place for about 15-20 minutes until the rolls have risen slightly.
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Bake the rolls for about 20 minutes. They should sound hollow when upturned and tapped. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cooling rack.U ntil recently, rye bread fell into the category of foods I loved but preferred to leave to the experts (see also croissants, yoghurt and proper chips). I’d written recipes in the past, but, in an effort to make them as quick and easy as possible, I’d sacrificed some of the dense darkness that had attracted me to rye in the first place. This updated version is lengthy, but stupidly simple – and much, much better.
This is a recipe for a 100% rye bread; dark and dense and crumbly,
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